Ask a Rolex enthusiast what they think is the most popular Rolex model, and they’re likely to name “Submariner” or “GMT-Master”. But what if we say it’s the humble Lady-Datejust that steals the show? Before you start asking questions, let’s just say there are credible sources confirming that 'women's Rolex Datejust watches outsell every other Rolex model.

The Rolex Lady-Datejust brings together the elegant features of the Datejust collection, including an automatic movement, a date window at 3 o’clock, and a timeless aesthetic in a compact design, making it ideal for those who prefer understated luxury.

Among its many references, the one Lady-Datejust that maintains its status as one of the best-selling models is the reference 69173. The 69173 hosts an immaculate design that still feels approachable today.

Produced for around two decades, the 69173 offers everything a collector seeks in a vintage Rolex, including proven reliability, timeless appeal, and enduring versatility, while remaining one of the most accessible entry points into Rolex ownership.

In this guide, we explore its history, features, market demand, and what makes it such a compelling choice.

Whether you’re a first-time luxury watch buyer or a seasoned collector, our expert insights will help you navigate the world of the Lady-Datejust 69173.

Let’s get started.

History of the Rolex Datejust 69173

Rolex revolutionised the watch industry in 1945 with the launch of the first wristwatch to display the date on the dial. However, it took until 1957 for the brand to release a dedicated women’s version, the Lady-Datejust, originally measuring 25mm in diameter. This marked a major milestone, blending elegant proportions with full chronometer precision.

The Lady-Datejust Ref. 69173 was launched in 1983 as part of Rolex’s transition to five-digit reference numbers. It not only exemplified the collection's appealing traits but also brought significant modern upgrades to the women’s line.

With its two-tone stainless steel-and-yellow-gold ‘Rolesor’ aesthetic, the 69173 introduced a new level of luxury and elegance to the Datejust line, making it widely appreciated by women. Until its discontinuation in 2003, the Lady-Datejust 69173 underwent subtle updates, but its core essence remained unchanged.

Timeline of Key Milestones for the Lady-Datejust and the Ref. 69173:

1957: Debut of the original Lady-Datejust, featuring a 25mm case with high chronometric precision
1970s: Increased case size to 26mm, the updated case size that would define the collection
1983: Launch of the ref. 69173, introducing the two-tone ‘Yellow Rolesor’ (steel & yellow gold) design and the revolutionary Calibre 2135 movement with the Quickset date feature
1990s: Rolex continued with subtle refinements to the 69173, shifting from Plexiglas crystal to scratch-resistant sapphire crystals, along with the introduction of diverse dial options like vignette, Mother-Of-Pearl and more
2000s: The 69173 series was eventually replaced by the modern updated versions (79173 & 179160), bringing updated Calibre 2235 and solid-link bracelets

About Rolex Lady-Datejust 69173

Over the decades, the Rolex Lady-Datejust has become a byword for style, reliability and timeless appeal. As part of the Lady-Datejust collection, specifically designed for women who appreciate refined craftsmanship in a compact size, the 69173 is a standout reference, offering an elegant blend of functionality and sophistication.

The hallmark of the 69173 is its two-tone design, combining stainless steel and 18ct yellow gold. The touch of luxury to the utilitarian steel case makes it a popular choice for both formal and casual settings. There is a wide range of dial colours available, all paired with the iconic Cyclops lens for added visibility. It also features a sapphire crystal, providing resistance to wear and tear.

The 69173 shares the same precision and heritage as its larger counterparts, but is tailored for slender, smaller wrists. Inside beats the Rolex Calibre 2135, a self-winding automatic movement featuring a Quickset date function that lets you set the date independently of the time.

It’s a perfect, versatile timepiece that combines beauty with function. From its well-balanced case to the recognisable Cyclops lens, precious metals and wide range of dials, every element serves a purpose while contributing to the model’s appeal.

The 69173 enjoyed a robust production run until its discontinuation in 2003 and continues to hold a special place in women’s luxury watches.

Our Initial Thoughts

The Rolex Lady-Datejust is very much all about delicacy, something to accentuate any already sophisticated outfit. It has both simple elegance and unassuming strength, making it a quintessential Rolex piece.

The 69173 is one of the longest-running Lady-Datejust women's references introduced in the 80s and discontinued in 2003. It has just the right touch of elegance, thanks to its two-tone steel-and-yellow-gold case and bracelet. This example comes in a 26mm case meticulously designed to withstand the rigours of daily wear for decades when properly maintained.

It has a gold fluted bezel, which, in our opinion, gives a very strong wrist presence because the way the light glimmers off it really draws your eye to the wrist. The dial colour options for the 69173 are pretty vast, including champagne, white, and more. For a little extra oomph, these can be found with factory diamond dials, making these examples pop.

One of the most attractive aspects of the Datejust range, especially the yellow Rolesor variants, is the five-link Jubilee bracelet, which looks extremely graceful on a woman's wrist. Even today, it remains the number one choice for women worldwide seeking the ultimate in chic refinement.

The Datejust 69173 carries on this strong tradition and brings extra touches of finesse with the two-tone Jubilee bracelet. On the wrist, the continuity of this Jubilee bracelet ensures a harmonious look from case to clasp. Additionally, it’s offered on an Oyster bracelet, which provides a more casual look compared to the Jubilee.

The COSC-Certified Calibre 2135 chronometer movement beating inside drives the date display that changes instantaneously at midnight – a mechanism that was groundbreaking at the time of its launch. Moreover, the 100m water resistance and approximately 48 hours of power reserve attest to the 69173 being not just beautiful but also practical for everyday wear, a crucial factor that makes it stand out as both a reliable everyday watch and a collectable timepiece.

But honestly, to us, this Lady-Datejust 69173 is more about style than ruggedness. One of its greatest strengths is its versatility. It’s a watch that will go to dinner, with a dress or jeans, to the beach, to the gym; in short, you can wear it with pretty much anything. You can easily take the watch off on a weekend and find it ticking accurately on Monday morning.

Talking of the price point, as with a vintage Rolex, condition plays a huge part. You can find these used 69173 anywhere between ?? and ???, depending on condition, dial configuration, provenance, and whether the box and papers are included. It even serves as an entry point for new collectors seeking a vintage Rolex without the premium commanded by older models.

However, models with diamond-set dials or other special features can command premium prices.

All in all, for women seeking an ‘all-rounder’ stylish timepiece with a subtle vintage flair that suits all occasions yet remains beginner-friendly, the Rolex Datejust 69173 is ideal.

Review: Rolex Lady-Datejust Ref: 69173

Key Specifications:

Model: Rolex Lady-Datejust Ref. 69173
Case Size: 26mm
Material: Stainless Steel & 18ct Yellow Gold
Bezel: 18ct Yellow Gold Fluted
Dial: Multiple Options
Bracelet: Stainless Steel & 18ct Yellow Gold Jubilee/Oyster Bracelet
Crystal: Sapphire Crystal
Movement: Automatic, Calibre 2135
Power Reserve: Approximately 48 hours
Water Resistance: 100m

Case & Bezel

The Datejust 69173 boasts a sleek 26mm case made of robust Oystersteel, making it ideal for smaller wrists and those who appreciate a refined yet understated presence. The case is topped with an 18ct yellow gold fluted bezel, which not only adds a touch of luxury but also serves a functional purpose of securing the crystal to the case.

The combination of steel and gold creates a striking visual contrast and makes the 69173 a highly versatile wear that can seamlessly transition from formal to casual and day to night.

Despite its elegant appearance, the 69173 offers up to 100m of water resistance, making the watch suitable for mild water activities. Rolex’s Twinlock double waterproofness system and screw-down crown contribute significantly to this water resistance.

Dial

One of the most appealing aspects of the 69173 is the wide variety of dial options. From classic white, silver and champagne to rare dials featuring diamond hour markers; there are plenty of captivating options to choose from, each offering a distinct character to the watch. However, the champagne dial is the most popular dial colour as it beautifully complements the two-tone case, creating a luxurious appearance.

Buyers can also choose between classic baton markers and Roman numerals for hour indicators. While the baton markers offer a more modern aesthetic, the Roman numerals exude a sophisticated air. The 69173 models with diamond hour markers present an extra layer of opulence to this prestigious timepiece. A key defining feature of the Datejust line is the Cyclops lens over the date display at 3 o’clock, which enlarges the date by 2.5x, enhancing readability.

Bracelet

The Rolex 69173 is typically paired with the iconic five-piece link Jubilee bracelet. However, some variants were also offered with the three-link Oyster bracelet, presenting a sporty, less ornate appeal. The bracelet, just like the case, has a two-tone construction with the outer links in stainless steel and the centre links in 18ct yellow gold, providing both comfort and visual interest.

The bracelets typically feature an Oysterclasp, allowing for slight sizing changes.

Movement

Inside the heart of the Datejust 69173 beats Rolex’s Calibre 2135, a self-winding automatic movement developed in-house, exemplifying the brand’s commitment to precision and reliability. The Calibre 2135 is a COSC-certified automatic movement, ensuring reliable timekeeping in all situations.

Price, Availability & Investment Potential

The Rolex Lady-Datejust Ref. 69173 is a discontinued ladies’ timepiece with one of the longest production runs, beginning in the early 1980s. Today, the 69173 is considered a coveted piece among collectors and enthusiasts seeking a classic, enduring design coupled with Rolex’s prestige and quality.

It is widely available on the pre-owned market as an entry-level luxury investment. The prices for a pre-owned Rolex Datejust 69173 range between £???? and £????, depending on the condition, dial design and other specific features. Consider buying a used Datejust 69173 in ‘Full Sets’, including the original box and papers, as it provides authenticity and provenance and significantly increases its value.

As the two-tone aesthetic and smaller size have begun to garner renewed interest in recent times amid a pool of larger timepieces, the market value of the Datejust 69173 has steadily appreciated.

However, for those seeking an investment, it is advisable to consider the 69173 as a stable source of value rather than an aggressive investment.

Buying Pre-Owned Datejust 69173

Acquiring a pre-owned Rolex Datejust 69173 can be an exciting yet overwhelming process for first-time buyers. Apart from ensuring the condition and authenticity of your timepiece, choosing the right dealer should be your primary concern.

The Luxury Hut is a trusted source in the luxury watch market, offering a wide selection of authentic, certified Rolex Datejust watches, including the 69173. The expertise of our in-house professionals is invaluable, especially when investing in a timepiece like the Rolex Datejust 69173. Rest assured our service is backed by complete transparency and expert knowledge.

Buying any used 69173 from us means you benefit from fair pricing, a detailed condition report, and a 12-month warranty on the watch, giving you complete peace of mind.

Why We Love The Rolex Datejust 69173?

It goes without saying that the Rolex Datejust 69173 is a remarkable watch whose enduring appeal lies in its incredible balance of design and practical functionality, making it a favourite among women. But what truly sets it apart is its versatility.

The two-tone steel-and-gold design is a hallmark of great design, as it can effortlessly transition from boardroom to ballroom, from formal to casual events, without being too flashy. This adaptability is one of the key reasons for the model’s lasting demand and popularity.

Durability is another aspect where the 69173 stands out. Despite its refined appearance, the watch is designed to withstand the rigours of daily wear. In fact, many of the pre-owned 69173 models, decades old, still keep excellent time and look fantastic.

And, finally, from an investment perspective, the Rolex Datejust 69173 holds its value remarkably well. Its timeless design makes it resistant to passing trends, and the Rolex pedigree ensures it will always remain a desirable piece. While it's relatively affordable compared to the other larger Datejust models, it doesn’t trade for any less on the pre-owned market, with well-maintained examples, particularly those with original box and papers, fetching impressive returns.

For all such reasons, the Rolex 69173 holds a special place in the hearts of Rolex aficionados worldwide. It remains relevant today even as it embraces a distinctive vintage aesthetic.

Final Thoughts

As we’ve explored throughout the review, the Rolex Lady-Datejust 69173 is a horological icon that’s as functional as it is beautiful. For collectors and enthusiasts, the 69173 is more than just a timepiece; it presents a unique opportunity to own an enduring design that has remained relevant for decades.

Whether you’re drawn to its technical prowess, design finesse or intrigued by the investment potential, the Datejust ref. 69173 offers something for every watch lover.

Discover The Luxury Hut’s exclusive collection of pre-owned Rolex 69173, available at highly competitive prices. Our team of experts is always ready to guide you through the process and provide additional insights. Shop the watches online with free, insured UK delivery, or drop in to the store for personal assistance. For more details, contact us on 0207 242 9160.

Rolex Lady-Datejust 69173: Review And Buying Guide

Related Reviews