Far from the popularity of the brand’s most iconic offerings, the Air-King is still a fascinating and enduring collection.

Launched in 1945 as part of the original Rolex “Air Series,” the Rolex Air-King is the only model from that series still in production today. Like many Rolex models of the mid-20th century, the Air-King was part dress and part sports watch released in the midst of World War II for a particular audience.

The Air-King has a very well-known face and has historically served as an entry point into Rolex ownership. It gives you the look and functionality of a professional Rolex without the usual figure shock. But even though it is an interesting and among the oldest Rolex models, beating the mainstream Submariner, Daytona, or GMT-Master, the Rolex Air-King never really attained the same mainstream popularity and collectability.

Rolex decided to change this narrative, or at least try to, with the reference 116900, which debuted in 2016 at the Baselworld trade show. Upgraded and revamped for the 21st century, the Air-King 116900 immediately cultivated a passionate following with its distinctive character, and continues to resonate with collectors even after the introduction of its successor.

For most of its long history, the Rolex Air-King was one of the least expensive and simplest Rolex models. So, how does the modern version with reference 116900 stack up?

This blog delves into everything that makes the Rolex Air-King 116900 one of the most desirable and loved models with a growing cult following. Learn about its collectability, distinct characteristics, demand, value retention, and other details to fully understand why it resonates so much.

Before we explore where the Air-King 116900 stands today, it’s worth taking a brief look at its history, because to fully appreciate how far the Air-King has come, you first need to know where and how it all began.

Story of the Rolex Air-King

Introduced in 1945, the Rolex Air-King has a fascinating history that spans over eight decades. It first appeared as part of the “Air” themed series, along with the Air-Giant, Air-Lion and Air-Tiger. The watches came in waterproof Oyster cases with manual-wind movements. This line was Hans Wilsdorf’s tribute to the British Royal Air Force pilots who fought during World War II and wore Rolex watches acquired privately rather than their officially-issued timepieces.

Eventually, all other “Air”- themed models disappeared, except for the Rolex Air-King, which Rolex finally launched as its own collection in 1958. By then the Air-King had carved out its own reputation within the brand’s catalogue as a highly reliable, straightforward and no-nonsense watch.

At 34mm, the Air-King was a testament to Rolex’s unwavering commitment to precision and functionality, qualities that were essential for aviation. The early Air-King models had a clean, understated design that highlighted the simplicity Rolex is known for, and they were equipped with automatic movements.

As time went on, the Rolex Air-King changed in design and mechanism, with a few new dial colour options, a handful of unusual dial designs, and a few white-gold fluted bezels. However, for most of its journey, the Air-King's aesthetics remained consistent until 2014, when Rolex discontinued the collection entirely.

Thankfully, this hiatus was short-lived, and the Air-King returned to the catalogue as reference 116900.

Throughout its history, the Rolex Air-King has remained true to its origins while adapting to modern times with dial options, case sizes, and materials, ensuring it remains relevant to a wide range of collectors and enthusiasts.

Key Timeline of the Rolex Air-King

1945: Rolex introduced the Air-King as part of the “Air” series, featuring a 34mm stainless steel case and manual winding movement
1953: Introduction of the signature ‘Air-King’ name on the dial and inclusion of self-winding mechanical movements with the Calibre 1030
1957/1958: Rolex launched one of the most famous production runs in watch history with the Air-King ref. 5500, lasting over three decades
1989: Replaced the acrylic crystal with scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and upgraded to the Calibre 3000 movement
2007: The 34mm Air-King line received the official Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute Certification (COSC) for accuracy and precision
2014: Rolex discontinued the Rolex Air-King collection
2016: Debut of the revamped 40mm Air-King design with the reference 116900, featuring a striking black pilot dial with prominent 3-6-9 Arabic numerals and Calibre 3131
2022: Rolex replaced the 116900 with the modern 126900 with added crown guards, a redesigned bracelet and the modern automatic Calibre 3230

About the Modern Rolex Air-King Ref. 116900

After a two-year hiatus, Rolex reintroduced the Air-King in 2016 with a brand-new design. The Air-King ref. 116900 showcases a greater departure from the traditional, vintage Air-King references. It is a modern interpretation of a classic model, packed with updated specifications that make this watch perfectly suited for everyday wear and formal occasions.

The Ref. 116900 comes in an upsized 40mm case with a bold dial resembling the cockpit instruments. Originally sporting a 34mm case, the new Air-King design boasts a 40mm stainless steel case, showcasing a sportier and modern appeal. The case is fitted with the Twinlock screw-down crown, offering 100m of water resistance. The matching stainless steel Oyster bracelet enhances the overall look while providing extra comfort on the wrist with the built-in Easylink 5mm extension mechanism.

If there’s one thing that was debatable amongst fans, it was the dial design of the ref. 116900. Notably different from the previous Air-King models where the dial was clean and simple, the new version has a somewhat busy dial.

The black dial of the ref. 116900 features white-gold applied 3-6-9 numerals and a large inverted-triangle index at 12 o’clock. The rest of the dial has white printed minute markings and Mercedes-style hands. An interesting design element is the yellow-and-green colour combination of the Rolex logo coronet, with a matching green seconds hand. Look closely, and you’ll find a resemblance to the dashboard of the supersonic Bloodhound SSC 1000 MPH Car.

Still an affordable option, the updated Air-King 116900, however, embraces qualities more in line with an aviation-inspired watch, further underscoring its roots.

Also new to the Rolex Air-King 116900 is its anti-magnetic quality. The watch is equipped with a specialised internal shield (borrowed from Milgauss) that protects the movement from magnetic fields. Powered by Calibre 3131, the movement is also equipped with a blue Parachrom hairspring and other paramagnetic components for additional protection against magnetic fields. As a Chronometer Certified movement, the Air-King ref. 116900 provides 48 hours of power reserve and a precision of -2/+2 seconds per day.

In 2022, Rolex replaced the 116900 with the updated reference 126900, featuring an upgraded movement, extra crown guards, and slight dial changes.

Our Initial Thoughts

The Air-King 116900 shows one of those rare moments when Rolex went out of its way to ‘experiment’, which is always fun to witness.

With a 40mm case, a completely overhauled dial, new ‘Superlative Chronometer’ certification and the same arrangements for magnetism and resistance as the Milgauss, the Rolex Air-King 116900 feels almost like an entirely new watch. In fact, it’s such a drift that Rolex could have easily named it something else.

Take a closer look at the case. It doesn’t have the block ‘Super Case’ of the maison’s more popular GMT-Masters and Subs, but almost a more graceful and appealing curve. On the wrist, the build is exactly what you’d expect from a steel Rolex case. The brushing is even, the crown screws down with a defined action, and the water resistance rating of 100m makes it suitable for plenty of daily-life activities like swimming (even if the 116900 has never been positioned as a dive watch).

What is the same, however, is the Air-King logo, as if to reassure that underneath all the colours and detailing lays the same old purist’s watch, the Air-King.

On the wrist, it wears like a true 40mm with the dial pushing it slightly past its measured size. At 13.2mm thickness and roughly 49mm lug-to-lug, it offers real presence without stepping into the oversized category. The proportions are familiar. If you’ve handled the Milgauss, you’ll know what we’re talking about.

The case has a slightly dressy feel and sits aggressively on the wrist. Additionally, the absence of crown guards gives the 116900 a smoother appearance. The whole package remains understated because of the Oyster bracelet despite the celebration happening on the dial. For daily wear, the legibility and style are excellent as it slides easily under a cuff rather than a Datejust.

The dial is the whole talking-point of this timepiece and remains one of the most debatable Rolex has ever produced. The glossy black dial of the Air-King 116900 keeps the traditional sporty look alive but gives it a modern twist with its colour combination. There is green for the seconds hand and dial print, and yellow for the Rolex Crown, giving the watch a playful personality. For those who’ve seen the dashboard of the Bloodhound SSC supersonic car, you'll know that the dash instruments inspired the dial colour detailing of the ref. 116900.

To us, this is quite fascinating as the Air-King 116900 is the only example of the Rolex logo and coronet in vivid green and yellow. Despite everything going on, the dial is refreshingly legible. The Air-King is bold and doesn’t apologise for its strangeness; instead, it revels in it.

There’s just too much happening on the face if you see it at a glance. There are white-gold 3-6-9 Arabic numerals, minute numerals running from 5 to 55, a green ‘Rolex’, a yellow Crown, a green seconds hand, and Mercedes hands. But somehow Rolex ensures high legibility. Every element of the dial aids ease of interpretation. And, honestly, up close, the dial is better than the hate-it-or-love-it reputation it upholds.

Whatever is new is also very well done, and one thing you can always be sure of with Rolex is that it gets everything done well, even if the design is not everyone’s cup of tea. The Oyster bracelet with folding Oysterclasp is incredibly smooth and reliable in operation as you’d expect. Once on the wrist, the bracelet ensures an even distribution of weight that goes a long way to ensure comfort. The satin-like finishing on the bracelet

Another aspect in which the Air-King 116900 proves it is a technically influenced piece is the Rolex Calibre 3131 movement, which is the same movement used by the Rolex Milgauss. Just as with the Milgauss, the Calibre 3131 ensures that the 116900 remains unaffected by magnetism and is housed in a soft-iron inner case. It also seems reasonable to add that this antimagnetic shielding makes the case relatively thicker, but on the wrist it doesn’t feel particularly bulky.

The power reserve is 48 hours, which was standard when the reference was launched, and in practice, it means that if you take the watch off on a Friday evening and reach for it on Monday, you’ll find it has stopped. If we were to be honest, this is the single most dated thing about the 116900, which is precisely what Rolex addressed in the successor 126900, which offers roughly 70 hours.

Be it accuracy, anti-magnetism, shock resistance, power reserve or sheer reliability, the Calibre 3131 is a worthy contender to any of its rivals. There is no exhibition caseback, so the 3131 stays hidden behind a solid screw-down back, which, quite rightly, aligns with its tool-watch brief.

The Air-King became much more fun and practical with the ref. 116900. And with all the modern-day Rolex upgrades, people can now wear it anywhere.

If we had to describe the Air-King 116900’s entire personality, we’d say - there’s a tension between a loud face and calm case, and maybe that is the very reason why this reference still has a cult following years after Rolex moved on from it.

Review: Rolex Air-King Ref. 116900

Key Specifications:
Model: Rolex Air-King, reference 116900
Case Size: 40mm
Material: Stainless Steel
Bezel: Stainless Steel
Dial: Black
Bracelet: Stainless Steel Oyster Bracelet
Crystal: Sapphire Crystal
Movement: Automatic, Calibre 3131
Power Reserve: 48 hours
Water Resistance: 100m

Case & Bezel

The case size of the Air-King changed drastically with the ref. 116900, with the new version coming in a larger 40mm case. The 40mm diameter puts it into a whole other league in terms of size. The case surface is satin-brushed on the top, with the side polishing being restrained.

Made from Oystersteel, the smooth, domed bezel ensures a clean, minimalist look that contrasts with the instrument-style dial. It is fixed in place without any graduations or markers.

Additionally, the new Oyster case design of the 116900 features the same antimagnetic shielding as the Rolex Milgauss, making this modern version resilient against electromagnetic interference. However, this is why it carries a little extra thickness compared to other standard steel time-only Rolex models.

It is equipped with a screw-down Twinlock double-waterproofness system, offering water resistance up to 100m, making it perfect for withstanding the rigours of everyday life.

Dial

One of the most striking visual updates came with the revamped Rolex Air-King ref. 116900 dial. In fact, it was named the ‘Bloodhound’ for its uncanny resemblance to the Bloodhound SSC land speed record vehicle.

The black background serves as the perfect stage for every detail to pop. It has oversized 3/6/9 Arabic numerals, a green seconds hand, white five-minute markers running speedometer-style, and a Mercedes-style hand-set. There’s Chromalight on the triangle and hands that glow a strong green in low-lighting conditions.

Interestingly, the Air-King dial is the only Rolex dial to feature the company’s Coronet and signature printed in two different colours – Coronet in yellow and Rolex in green. Another new addition is the text “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” on the dial.

Amidst all this, the legibility remains excellent, and the hierarchy actually works when you read the time at a glance.

Bracelet

The Air-King 116900 comes with a solid-link Oyster bracelet made of high-corrosion-resistant 904L stainless steel. It is equipped with a folding Oyster clasp ensuring a safe fit on the wrist.

The bracelet also features Rolex’s 5mm Easylink rapid extension system, allowing you to easily increase or decrease the bracelet length by 5mm without any tools.

Movement

Inside the Rolex 116900 beats the in-house automatic Calibre 3131, a self-winding movement with a bidirectional rotor. Just like the Milgauss, the Air-King 116900 has an internal shield that ensures the watch’s resistance to magnetic fields. It also comes fitted with a paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring for high resistance to temperature and shock variations.

As a Superlative Chronometer Certified movement, the Calibre 3131 guarantees an accuracy of -2/+2 seconds per day and a power reserve of 48 hours.

Price, Availability & Investment Potential

As a discontinued model, the Rolex Air-King Ref. 116900 trades on the secondary market between ??? and ????, with complete sets sitting near the top of that range. The price varies depending on the set's completeness, condition, provenance, and age.

From the pricing perspective, the ref. 116900 remains one of the most approachable modern Rolex sports watches, with an unmistakable design, build quality, and precision associated with the brand. This combination makes it a serious everyday Rolex without making the price obvious.

Additionally, its investment potential is also very interesting, as Rolex produced the 116900 for only six years, during which the model remained entirely sold out at retailers. There were lengthy waiting lists with pushed-up prices on the secondary market. This indicates the Air-King 116900’s desirability. Also, given the 116900’s discontinued status, a fixed supply adds to its desirability.

Consider buying a well-maintained piece with the original box and papers, as it is likely to be the most attractive proposition for someone considering its investment potential. Always buy from a reputable source to ensure the watch is certified authentic and worth its value.

Why We Love The Rolex Air-King Ref. 116900?

Upon its launch in 2016, the Air-King 116900 was surrounded by controversy, with some calling it out for its busy dial while others were happy to see Rolex, an otherwise conservative brand, shake things up a bit and offer something unexpected.

To us, the Rolex 116900 Air-King is a quirky piece in the modern Rolex category. It has a personality that sets it apart from many of the brand’s familiar faces. Anyone looking beyond the obvious Rolex names should consider this timepiece with strong identity.

When Rolex re-launched the Air-King in 2016 with the ref. 116900 took the Air-King collection from a traditional design to a distinctly contemporary direction, while retaining the model’s long aviation-inspired history. This versatility is perhaps its biggest strength.

You can wear the Air-King comfortably, pair it with a T-shirt and jeans for business-casual dressing or wear it to a meeting, on a weekend trip or when travelling. It is sporty enough for relaxed occasions but refined enough to not feel out of place. Its bold dial with colourful elements and practical proportions ensures it never feels ordinary.

For buyers thinking the long term, the Air-King 116900 offers stable value retention. Even while offering one of the most affordable entry-level price points to the brand, the watch functions well as a long-term hold. Even in 2026, collectors view it as a stainless steel Rolex sports model with steady demand.

As one of the most affordable entry points into a steel 40mm Rolex, the Air-King 116900 delivers a lot of watch for the money with its characterful appearance, antimagnetic case, Superlative Chronometer certification and Milgauss pedigree.

Buy it if you want a Rolex with genuine personality or the most refined version of the Air-King – the reference 116900 is a choice you won’t regret.

Buy Pre-Owned Air-King 116900

Buying a pre-owned Rolex Air-King ref. 116900 is an excellent way to acquire one of the most affordable professional Rolex models that is no longer in production. This aviation-inspired watch with a unique dial was discontinued in 2022 and is now exclusively available on the secondary market.

You can buy verified, authentic timepieces backed by a warranty and official authentication from reliable watch dealers. However, when buying one, consider the watch's condition and look for deep scratches, excessive polishing, or signs of excessive wear and tear.

It is also worth considering whether you want a ‘Full Set’ example. Original box, papers, warranty card, and accessories not only add confidence to the purchase but also add value when the time comes to sell.

For those who want the greatest level of assurance, check out The Luxury Hut’s exclusive collection of pre-owned Rolex Air-King 116900 to find the perfect model that suits your budget and preference. The watches are certified authentic and backed by warranty for your peace of mind.

End Note

From its initial association with the aviation world to embracing a minimalist time-only design and now standing out as a significantly different entry-level timepiece for the brand, the Rolex Air-King has come a long way.

While the Air-King 116900 may look different compared to its predecessors, it stays true to its humble beginning as a pilot’s watch. It’s not a watch that tries to blend in, and that’s precisely why it stands out. It feels intentional, modern and slightly unconventional, making it an intriguing choice for anyone looking for a Rolex with a personality of its own.

Discover a vast collection of pre-owned Rolex watches at The Luxury Hut, including the pre-owned Rolex Air-King 116900. The watches are 100% authentic and include a 12-month warranty for your peace of mind. Enjoy free UK delivery, 14-day return and a hassle-free service. Shop our used Air-King 116900 either online or in-store to find the perfect piece that suits your preference.

For any more information, contact us directly on 0207 242 9160.

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