Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167/1A - Review & Buying Guide

Modern, sporty, and chic, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut is one of the younger members of Patek Philippe's historic family of timepieces that has already gained an avid following. Launched in 1997, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut was meant to appeal to the younger and more active generation of luxury watch buyers and rightfully did so with its simplified design and sporty rubber strap.

Today, the Aquanaut easily belongs to a generation of Patek Philippe watches that remain excellent investments. Almost all models are sold out at retail and traded on the secondary market at values higher than their original brand-new pieces.

Over time, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut has become a staple among professional athletes and A-list celebrities. And, since it has been produced in a wide range of configurations and models, there's plenty to choose from. However, if you were to ask us about that one particular model that collectively represents the beauty of this collection, it has to be the 'Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167/1A'.

This model stands out for its simplicity and is extremely versatile. But before we get on with how brilliant this timepiece is, let's start by acknowledging how and when the Aquanaut positioned itself as a modern alternative to the iconic Nautilus. No offense, Nautilus fanatics.

History of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut

If you know anything about Patek Philippe, you'll know that the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 is one of the most in-demand steel watches on the PLANET! There are several reasons for this explosion in popularity, most of which are not grounded by logic or reason but fuelled by emotion and passion. No real surprises there. The Nautilus retained its enviable reputation for over 20 years.

It was then that Patek realised it needed something fresh and new to attract the new generation of watch lovers. A watch that carried the brand's signature hallmarks of a luxury sports watch but also embraced the notion of 'casual luxury'. The solution? The Patek Philippe 'Aquanaut'.

In 1997, Patek Philippe released the Aquanaut Reference 5060A, heavily inspired by the iconic design of the Nautilus but with several notable differences. The watch's design clearly showed that Patek sought to attract a younger audience. Soon, the Aquanaut was regarded as the younger sibling of the then-21-year-old Nautilus.

This timepiece was like a breath of fresh air in the world of luxury watches. The rounded octagonal case design, inspired by the classic Nautilus, immediately caught the attention. It exuded a contemporary charm that immediately set it apart. The Aquanaut's young and modern design aesthetics perfectly embraced the mood at the end of the 1990s with the 'tropical' rubber strap and statement-making grenade-pattern dial.

Key design characteristics of an Aquanaut

• Distinct case design
• Textured dial with Arabic numerals
• 'Tropic' composite rubber strap

As Gerald Genta didn't design the watch, the case wasn't as complex and didn't have an integrated bracelet. While some praised the modern style and technical execution, others saw the Aquanaut as the Nautilus junior. After all, if you keep making things that make your existing customers happy, there's a fair chance you will not be able to attract new ones.

The Modern Aquanaut - Reference 5167/1A

In 2007, the Aquanaut reference 5167/1A entered the collection, introducing a horde of changes or, as the brand claims, updates. Here's the list:

• 36mm case size replaced with a larger case size of 40.8mm
• Dial with improved luminescent markers for higher legibility
• Introduction of the sporty integrated bracelet
• Powered by Calibre 26-330SC, ensuring higher precision

As more contemporary designs entered the landscape with new styles and materials, it attracted a younger generation of watch enthusiasts, many of whom referred to the Aquanaut 5167/1A as the perfect daily timekeeper.

Things to love about the Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167/1A

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167/1A is one of the most affordable Aquanaut watches out there. With its sleek three-hand design in stainless steel, this timepiece has become a universally coveted gem from this renowned collection.

The 5167/1A is probably the most classic-looking Aquanaut watches. Made from stainless steel and presented on a black dial, the watch's modest design makes it perfect for wearing every day of the week.

While the Aquanaut on the strap is the most popular choice, this exquisite craftsmanship on the stainless steel bracelet is a whole different story. It gives you the feeling of the legendary Nautilus while retaining the classic Aquanaut charm. All we can say is that you won't be disappointed a bit!

As beautiful as the watch is, it shines bright on the wrist. The moment you strap this on your wrist, you'll know why it's so desirable and hyped. It's light and hugs seamlessly with its flattening structure. The watch is very versatile by nature, and how the design wears on the wrist means you can literally wear it everywhere.

Our Initial Review

From the mid-2000s onwards, Patek Philippe started experimenting with more contemporary designs, targeting a younger audience. From openwork dials to bright orange straps, the Aquanaut is central to the brand's goal of continually attracting a newer generation of enthusiastic collectors.

While we all loved how Patek stunned everyone with the 'tropical' rubber strap release in 1997, we had only one impression when we stumbled upon this stainless-steel bracelet stunner—wow! How did Patek Philippe even manage to create a sporty watch of such a subtle nature, perfect in almost every aspect? It has a different look than the conventional strap, as you see on an Aquanaut.

The Aquanaut 5167/1A was released on the 10th anniversary of the Aquanaut, and Patek Philippe's renowned commitment to meticulous detail is clearly evident in this model. The case is slightly simpler than the Nautilus, with polish on the rounded edges and a satin finish running along the top of the bezel. The dial has a geosphere cut, which evokes the feeling that you could take this travel-friendly Aquanaut on your global adventures.

The black dial has high-grade nuances, with hands and numerals in white gold and a quickset date mechanism at 3 o'clock. We appreciate the plenty of lume on the dial, making it easy to read under any circumstances.

The bracelet is handsome and distinctly different. It is extremely comfortable and sits flat on the wrist—perfect for those with smaller wrists. It has larger links than Nautilus and polished shoulders. You can see pins on the bracelet side, allowing easy resizing. The clasp on the bracelet is yet again different from what you get on a Nautilus—it's more modern and substantial.

Well, it may sound like too much of a Nautilus comparison is going on here. But that's just how it works between siblings, you see.

We truly believe the Aquanaut 5167/1A is an easy-to-wear watch with an upscale and formal appearance and improved durability.

It is one of those watches that you have to see to believe—at least in our case. So, below, in true The Luxury Hut fashion, we've done our best to be as thorough and as accurate as possible about the Aquanaut 5167/1A, which we genuinely believe is hands-down one of the most stylish-looking sports watches out there.

Review: Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167/1A

Key Specifications:

• Model: 5167/1A
• Case Size: 40.8mm
• Material: Stainless steel
• Bezel: Stainless steel
• Dial: Black embossed
• Crystal: Sapphire
• Bracelet: Stainless steel
• Movement: Calibre 26-330SC
• Water resistance: 30 metres
• Power Reserve: 45 hours
• Retail Price: £24,220

Case

The 5167/1A sits on the wrist at 40.8mm and is just 8.1mm thick. Crafted from stainless steel, the unique octagonal shape of the case with slightly rounded edges resembles the Nautilus. The case features a mix of polished and brushed surfaces.

The case, along with the screwed case back, is relatively straightforward, and with the crown guards, it's really defining the shape of this watch. There is no elaborate case decoration that only adds to its simplistic elegance and is, in fact, perfectly proportioned for comfort and style.

Thanks to the thinner case band, the watch appears slim and sleek. This means it will slide directly under a suit cuff. It has a nice, interesting, high-polished bevel leading into the tapering down of the lugs.

Dial

It has an unapologetic black embossed dial with a globe theme (thanks to the longitude and latitude lines). This Aquanaut has a unique geosphere cut and a gradient of its own. While some say it's some sort of black and bronze, we feel it is even more complex with shades of silver, grey, yellow, violet, or some sort of metallic undertone. It also does have a kind of smokey look to it.

The black dial's signature checkerboard pattern offers a contemporary yet timeless look. Since it is a sports watch, Patek lent it plenty of lume, making it extremely easy to read the time in any lighting situation. Pay attention—the devil is in the details. The '3' is no longer there, leaving just the date aperture at the location. The date window takes up a minimum area, giving the dial architecture more space and appearing much more balanced.

The white gold Arabic numerals and hands complete the look. And, let's be honest, Patek Philippe didn't give much importance to the seconds hand because when someone asks the time, we consider the hours and minutes, not seconds, because they keep changing.

Thanks to the sapphire crystal's anti-reflective coating, the dial gets a chance to pop. At a glance, it appears black and white with no nonsense.

Bezel

The dial is framed by a big and bold, highly polished stainless steel bezel that appears quite chunky. The satin-brushed, rounded octagonal bezel is nicely differentiated from the satin finish of the case band.

Bracelet

This astonishing Aquanaut is paired with a beautiful, purpose-built stainless steel bracelet. The good news is that this steel bracelet is far more durable and wearable for smaller wrists. It is a compact watch across the wrist. The Nautilus bracelet design was more jewellery-like, but the one in the Aquanaut model is bolder and more substantial.

The centre links are satin-finished, and the flanking links are polished on the shoulders, but on the outer face, it is satin. Also, big gaps between the links allow it to breathe. There are pins holding the removable links rather than more convenient screws. The fold-over clasp offers added comfort, and you must press it on both sides to deploy it.

The hidden claps with an engraved iconic Calatrava cross allow for a seamless look.

Movement

The watch is powered by the entirely hand-finished Calibre 26-330SC, known for its accuracy and reliability. The transparent case back reveals the intricate mechanism of the Calibre 26-330SC, black-polished screws, and various other things that come together to make the watch tick. It gives an accuracy of -3/+2 seconds per day.

It is nicely finished and features a unidirectional winding rotor in 21ct gold. The intricacy of the movement inside makes it worth maybe half of what you're paying for this watch. 

The Patek Philippe seal, similar to the Geneva seal, is visible on the back. The movement offers a 45-hour power reserve and a 30-metre water resistance, making it as functional as elegant.

Price & Availability

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Reference 5167/1A is becoming increasingly popular, making it difficult to find one in retail. Waiting lists are long, and enthusiasts and collectors turn to the secondary market for one.

Consider this watch an investment or one of the most expensive and rare Patek Philippe watches to collect. The price and demand of this Aquanaut are only meant to go up.

Like many other Patek models, the Aquanaut 5167/1A retains its value very well on the secondary market, and you can sell watches at an exorbitant price in the future.

Who is this watch for?

This full stainless steel Patek Philippe Aquanaut is a very subtle sports luxury watch that makes a lot of buzz when seen from a distance. It is perfect for both men and women who prefer a classic appearance. It is the ultimate modern sports watch that is not ordinary.

BOTTOM LINE

In the world of luxury watches, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5167/1A stands out as a true icon, embodying elegance, sophistication and elegance. Whether you're drawn to its impeccable craftsmanship, unique design or the prestige of the Patek Philippe brand, getting this stainless steel sports watch from one of the world's largest watch manufacturers is an achievement in itself.

Owning a sought-after Patek Philippe model like this is about becoming a part of a rich history. So, if you really want to curate a collection that goes beyond the ordinary, the Aquanaut 5167/1A is the one.

 

Also Read About Patek Philippe Watch:

Why Patek Philippe Watches Hold Their Value?
7 Most Expensive and Rare Patek Philippe Watches to Collect
How to Verify the Authenticity of a Patek Philippe Watch?