Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph Q389848J - Review & Buying Guide
Over the years, Jaeger-LeCoultre has become a cult favourite for its elaborately designed and technically proficient watches. However, despite various ornate and complex pieces in its catalogue, the timeless story of the iconic 'Reverso' is known to all. After all, not every day do you see a watch that can reverse while worn.
The Reverso was designed in 1931 to withstand the rigours of polo matches. Built for functionality, it was Jaeger-LeCoultre's most innovative watch design that immediately captivated onlookers. From the start, the Reverso gained traction for its fundamental concept and the engineering of the mechanism inside that enabled the case to be turned over and locked into place. The watch world had never witnessed anything like it before. Today, the Jaeger-LeCoultre' Reverso' is history's most famous reversible watch.
In 2016, Jaeger-LeCoultre launched the 'Reverso Tribute' to celebrate the 85th anniversary of the iconic reversible model. As the name suggests, the Tribute watches pay homage to the original stylistic codes of the 1931 Reverso.
The almost 100-year-old Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso has adapted to just about everything, from its original three-hand design to a tourbillion or a minute repeater. Here, we're going to talk about the Reverso Tribute Chronograph Reference Q389848J, released by Jaeger-LeCoultre at Watches and Wonders 2023. This watch gracefully includes the ultimate sports complication by drawing inspiration from the original Reverso chronograph of 1996.
Before we give you a detailed review of this impressive Reverso Tribute chronograph, it's only respectful that we first discuss the historical model. So, let's get started.
Brief History of the Jaeger-LeCoultre ‘Reverso'
It all started in the winter of 1930-1931. During his travel in India, Swiss entrepreneur and watch enthusiast César de Trey visited a polo match held at a club frequented by British army officers. One of these officers broke the glass of his watch and challenged Trey to create a model robust enough to withstand the rigour of polo matches.
César de Trey discussed the idea with the then-owner of the LeCoultre manufacturer, Jacques-David LeCoultre. LeCoultre, who could provide the watch movements, appointed the firm Jaeger S.A. to design the reversible case, which further contracted French designer René-Alfred Chauvot to invent the unique slide and flip mechanism. Finally, the result was a beautiful, elegant watch that could flip, protecting the watch face from shocks. The dial could be flipped to offer a case back with a generous surface.
In 1937, LeCoultre and Jaeger S.A. merged officially to become Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Original design of the Reverso model:
- Original Reverso was 38mm tall, 6mm thick and 24mm wide
- Geometric reversible case that can rotate 180° from back to front
- Angular lugs and three horizontal lines on the casing, both above and below the dial
- Solid case back (only for the first 60 years of production), perfect for personalisation, engraving, enamelling or diamonds
- Dial featuring only hours and minute hands (Small seconds sub-dial added at 6 o'clock in 1934)
Over the years, the Reverso has solidified its position as a great Art Deco classic and is one of the most interesting and innovative watch designs ever made. They are no longer limited to the bustling fields filled with horses and players, but you can now spot them in comfortable places.
Launch of the Modern ‘Reverso Tribute'
In 2016, Jaeger-LeCoultre launched the Reverso Tribute line to commemorate the 85th anniversary of the legendary Reverso. The new models are legitimately unisex and nod to the original aesthetics of the Reverso, released in 1931. The watches also pay homage to the colourful models of 1931.
All the Reverso Tribute models have trapezoidal indexes, Dauphine hands, and chemin de fer (minute) tracks. It is more of a modern interpretation of the original watch.
The Reverso Tribute lineup hosts an extensive range of complications, from simple to the most complicated, displayed from one side and beyond.
For instance, the sunray-brushed dial now comes in colours, bringing a strong sense of style without tampering with the original design. Additionally, the matching strap adds more character to the Reverso Tribute models.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute offers various impressive models, including:
- Reverso Tribute Monoface
- Reverso Tribute Duoface
- Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon
- Reverso Tribute Calendar
- Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon
New Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute ‘Chronograph’ Q389848J
Complicated Reverso pieces are always interesting, given the space restrictions and commercial implications of developing rectangular movements, and the Tribute Chronograph is no exception. It is definitely the most interesting Reverso to be released in recent years.
The new Tribute chronograph, released in Watches and Wonders 2023, is based on the limited edition from 1996. The original Reverso Chronograph Retrograde was a 500-piece limited edition model in pink gold, but this new chronograph is a regular production watch.
The watch features a sunray-brushed primary dial and a skeletonised chronograph dial on the reverse. The more traditional blue sunray dial is superb and, with the dagger hands and indexes, gives off strong Art Deco vibes.
Few watches provide two distinct personalities in one piece, and those that do are usually much more expensive than this JLC.
Although it has two faces, it isn't strictly a Duoface, as it only displays a single time zone. You set the time once, and both dials show the same time.
The chronograph on the second dial is the real star of the show. It's a beautiful concoction of traditional elements with a modern display. On one side, the Reverso Tribute Chronograph shows a modern take on a classic dress watch, and on the other, a chronograph calibre is on display. It just shows how different JLC is as a watchmaker. Because the two dials are so distinct, one can easily wear the Ref. Q389848J on formal occasions as well as dressy parties.
Initial Review
First, let us state that while the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph is not a Duoface because it displays only one time zone, it definitely embraces the spirit of the Duoface. Both dials display the time and the same time zone, synchronised through the crown.
Speaking of the blue sunray dial, it pretty much plays into the line's heritage and fits the art deco style of the case. The blue makes the watch appear a little bit more modern. It is more of a muted blue with hints of grey. The dial is adorned with applied metal indices, steel hour markers and metal hands without any lume plots.
However, when you flip the case, you are greeted with a completely different design. There's a skeletonised dial with a chronograph. As mentioned above, both dials show the same time display and show the time running in the same direction. So, you'll find the hands running backwards on the skeletonised dial side. We think this mechanism is more impressive than including two time zones in one movement.
The skeletonised dial is more than an open-worked structure. The chronograph's second hand is centrally mounted, indicated through a mid-case 60-second disc. At 6 o'clock, there's a semicircular retrograde 30-minute chronograph sub-dial. Once the chronograph reaches 30 minutes, it jumps back to zero. Another interesting thing is that while operating the chronograph, the pushers will be on the left side. This is because the pushers are on the right side when the time-only dial is displayed.
Even though the watch is only 11mm thick, JLC has given the open-worked dial so many depths. However, we feel that the skeletonised dial of this steel version offers a little less legibility because the hands and hour markers are the same colour. But that's not a real problem, as you can always flip the dial over to check the time. The chronograph minutes and seconds hands are blue, ensuring legibility when operating.
The watch is slightly larger on the wrist, measuring 29.9mm in diameter and 49.4mm lug-to-lug. This may be a bit problematic for those with smaller wrists, but given this watch's engineering and functional mechanisms, it's understandable why it has to be larger.
A new movement powers the Reverso Tribute Chronograph Ref. Q389848J: the in-house Calibre 860. It is manually wound, beats at 4 Hz, and provides a power reserve of 52 hours.
Overall, this stainless steel reference is the perfect example of the brand's ability to create classic yet complicated timepieces. Visually, this watch offers an on-demand dress piece with a sports mode.
Review: JLC Reverso Tribute 'Chronograph' Q389848J
Basics:
- Model: Q389848J
- Case Size: 9.4mm x 29.9mm
- Material: Stainless Steel
- Bezel: Stainless Steel
- Dial: Blue/Rhodium Grey
- Bracelet: Navy Blue/Black Calfskin Leather Strap
- Movement: Manual Winding
- Crystal: Sapphire
- Power Reserve: 52 hours
- Water Resistance: 30 metres
Case & Bezel
Jaeger-LeCoultre made one thing very clear: It couldn't adjust the design of an icon like Reverso to fit in the chronograph complication. The complication must rather be adapted to fit the Reverso framework.
With its 49.4mm case length, 29.9mm diameter, and 11.14mm thickness, the Reverso Tribute Chronograph finely balances its proportions. The lugs slope downwards, making it less forgiving for smaller wrists.
This rectangular steel watch with a matching bezel wears larger and offers plenty of wrist presence. Additionally, as the maximum weight lies within the centre revolving case, the signature 'Reverso' mechanism offers a satisfying action as it flips around and locks into the outer frame of the case.
Ornamental grooves on the top and bottom of the case offer a nice aesthetic impact. And as you'd expect, sapphire crystals protect the two displays on either side.
Dial
A crisp flip of the case exposes the skeletonised chronograph side of the dial. It is surely a horological feast for the eyes.
First Dial
The first impression is caused by the blue front dial, which is more of a blue-grey shade. At first, this front dial makes the watch appeal as a simple two-handed timepiece. It has polished and applied baton hour markers, elegant Dauphine hands, and a chemin de fer minutes track.
Second Dial
Beneath the sobriety of the front grey-blue sunray dial lays an open-worked structure. It is fascinatingly complex, revealing the mechanism of the chronograph with a retrograde 30-minute counter. The fine engineering highlights mechanical complexity as well as exceptional finishes. For instance, the minute track floating above the movement, the applied hour markers, the blue chronograph hands, and the bevelled bridges are unique and versatile.
LC has meticulously crafted this chronograph system, featuring open rings to indicate its functions, elegant côtes de Genève decoration, delicate chamfering, a major portion of the calibre exposed and blued screws of the movement matching the blue hands of the chronograph.
As you would expect from a brand called the "watchmaker's watchmaker", the column wheel mechanism ensures the pushers offer an incredibly crisp operation that remains fully visible at the 7 o'clock location of the dial.
Bracelet/Strap
The Reverso Tribute Chronograph Ref. Q389848J comes with a pair of interchangeable straps, one in blue leather and the other in black leather. The blue canvas strap gives off a more casual and sporty vibe that could be easily dressed up. And for the times when you want to embrace the Reverso's elegant side, switch to the full black calfskin leather strap. Thanks to the quick-change system that lets you easily swap the two without the need for extra tools.
Movement
Powering the JLC Reverso Tribute Chronograph Ref. Q389848J is the manual wind movement, Calibre 860, running at a frequency of 4Hz. It provides a power reserve of 52 hours. The in-house Calibre 860 is a fully integrated chronograph, driven by a column wheel and horizontal clutch. The choice of a horizontal clutch ensures a thinner profile on the wrist. To ensure that the shape of the movement matches the case, the Calibre 860 has a distinct rectangular profile.
JLC has done a fantastic job by displaying the chronograph seconds on the upper portion of the dial with time and the minutes with a retrograde display below. This helps to create a harmonious display while offering maximum legibility.
Moreover, to display the minutes and hours on both the front and reverse dials, the movement has to power two sets of hands that move in opposite directions. There are almost 300 components powering the mechanism, showcasing that the Calibre 860 is a true feat of miniature engineering.
Other Things
When you view the time-only blue dial, a signed winding crown flanked by two rectangular pushers on the right side of the case operates the movement's chronograph functions. However, when you flip to the chronograph side of the dial, you'll find the pushers and crown appearing on the left side of the case, which you can operate with the thumb of your right hand (if you're wearing the watch on your left wrist).
The best part is that the pushers' thin rectangular profile offers minimal visual presence, ensuring little distraction from the watch's classic lines on days when you simply wish to flaunt the time-only Reverso.
Price & Availability
The Jaeger-LeCoultre' Reverso' watches are always more expensive than the watches with only a dial. Moreover, given that the Reverso Tribute Chronograph is inherently more complex than the time-only dials; the prices are expected to be on the higher side within the collection.
With an official price of £22,900, the new Reverso Tribute Ref. Q389848J in stainless steel is slightly expensive. But given the watch's striking visual and mechanical rendition, it's worth every penny. The Tribute Chronograph offers exceptional value for money when compared to other high-end chronographs on the market. In fact, we'd say there's nothing quite like it.
| Model | Retail Price | Pre-Owned Market Price |
|---|---|---|
| JLC Reverso Tribute Chronograph Ref. Q389848J | £22,900 | £18,060.00 to £24,133.00 |
Why buy the Reverso Tribute Ref. Q389848J?
As the brand says, the JLC Reverso Tribute Chronograph Ref. Q389848J is inspired by the past and shaped by the future. We truly admire the offer of a single steel Reverso model with an elegant time-only dial and a complicated skeletonised chronograph dial. It offers strong appeal and is definitely a fitting tribute.
While it's natural to compare the new chronograph to the original, the two watches are aesthetically quite distinct. The Tribute adopts today's minimalist look to keep it relevant while not shying away from giving it a fierce look on the reverse.
This pairing of a simple time-only dial with a chronograph on a Reverso feels fun and versatile.
The original chronograph showcased an Art Deco-inspired dial, complete with stamped guilloché patterns and elegant blue sword-shaped hands. This new Tribute chronograph flaunts a radially-brushed dial with dauphine hands. This look is certainly more modern and appeals more to the young crowd.
Being innovative is one thing, but being both innovative and aesthetically captivating is a whole different achievement. And, sure, the JLC Reverso Tribute Chronograph has ticked that box.
Final Words
Overall, the JLC Reverso Tribute Chronograph Ref. Q389848J possesses the quirky charm of the original but also injects the right amount of modernity to stay in tune with the new generation. The additional time display on the chronograph side enhances practicality.
While the larger size may raise some eyebrows, the aesthetic and technical updates enable it to stand out. This is not just a remake of a vintage watch but a completely new and unusual design that will appeal to both Reverso fans and others with a penchant for the finest chronographs.
Also Read About Jaeger-LeCoultre Watch: