Cartier Santos-Dumont WSSA0046 - Review & Buying Guide
Cartier, the French jeweller, perhaps has the most enviable historical claim in the world of luxury watches – introducing the first men's wristwatch, the Cartier Santos, in 1904. While other watch brands have introduced significant technological innovations since then, Cartier pioneered it all.
The Cartier Santos-Dumont holds a special place as arguably the world's first men's wristwatch and the first sports watch, with an aviation-inspired legacy dating back to 1904. With this in mind, the Santos-Dumont series has always held a distinct place in the brand's catalogue and continues to command connoisseur's interest even today.
At Watches and Wonders 2022, Cartier brushed up the line with three unique models featuring compelling lacquered cases. These three models take on the modern coloured-case trend and deliver a striking new outlook while retaining the beauty of the base metals. One of them is the Cartier Santos-Dumont Ref. WSSA0046 in stainless steel.
The new Santos-Dumont WSSA0046 was unexpected and certainly one of the most intriguing Santos-Dumont iterations to date, yet it feels quintessentially Cartier. Here, we'll take a closer look at the model WSSA0046, explore its impressive qualities and share why it might be the one for you.
There's always an interesting story behind Cartier's most iconic creations. Let's start by shedding light on the story that sparked the origin of the Santos-Dumont.
Story Of The Cartier Santos-Dumont
The story goes that Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont shared his concern with his friend Louis Cartier, the grandson of Louis-François Cartier, about the impracticality and unreliability of using a pocket watch while flying.
In the 1900s, Santos-Dumont carved his name in the world of aviation with his numerous feats. But as he began flying heavier aircraft, he needed a watch that could help him read the time without having to remove his hands from the controls of his plane.
Louis Cartier accepted his friends' request for a pilot-friendly watch. He created the groundbreaking Cartier Santos wristwatch in 1904, featuring a distinct square case with exposed screws, slightly curved lugs and a leather strap tailored for aviators. It eventually became the first-ever men's wristwatch in history and the first pilot's piece as well.
Santos-Dumont was beyond pleased with the innovation, as it allowed him to read the time without pulling out his pocket watch while flying. In a notable incident, Santos-Dumont wore his favourite new watch in 1906 when he performed his first public engine-powered flight. He would check on his watch without leaving the wheel of his plane. The release of the Cartier Santos-Dumont was a true innovation for the era.
However, even though the Santos-Dumont was created in 1904, it was finally introduced to the public in 1911.
Design of the Cartier Santos-Dumont
The Cartier Santos-Dumont immediately caught the attention for its bold and instantly recognisable design. Key features include:
- Square case: In the era of round pocket watches, the signature square case with rounded edges was among the first of its kind.
- Bezel with screws: The bezel featuring visible screws pays homage to the industrial era of Paris at the time and also serves a functional purpose.
- Highly Legible dial: The clean dial with classic Roman numeral hour markers and blued steel sword hands added to the watch's timeless appeal.
- Sapphire Cabochon: The crown was set with a blue sapphire cabochon to add a pop of colour and a touch of luxury to the classic Cartier design.
Over the years, Cartier has changed and upgraded the design, offering several styles to choose from. However, the Santos-Dumont still represents the more elegant side of the collection and retains the striking figure that made it famous in the first place.
Modern Cartier Santos-Dumont ‘Large’ WSSA0046
The Santos Dumont was invented by Louis Cartier back in 1904 for his dear friend and Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos Dumont and is considered the first aviator watch and the first modern wristwatch. When you look at the entire lineup, you see the same square shape and the screw heads exposed on the bezel that represents some of the rivets on the Santos Dumont aircraft.
Moving forward 118 years, in 2022, Cartier released three different versions of the Santos Dumont, all featuring lacquered finishes on the case and bezel. This resulted in a trilogy of watches that many consider the best addition to the Santos collection.
One model is the Black Lacquer edition - Cartier Santos Dumont, Ref. WSSA0046. This watch showcases a black lacquered stainless steel case and bezel, complemented by a polished black dial, elevating its refined and sophisticated aesthetic. The sleek design elevates the iconic Santos Dumont's overall aesthetic appeal. It's a true black beauty!
Surprisingly, this wasn't the biggest blockbuster released among the three, and it is also the most affordable version of the lacquer trio. Still, this stainless steel variant made a significant impact with its monochrome colourway.
Initial Review
We love the Cartier Santos Dumont, one of the oldest watches Cartier has ever created. We are equally fond of the Santos Dumont model WSSA0046, which came out in 2022 and is arguably one of its neatest iterations.
It's really refreshing to see how Cartier changes something about one of its most popular models and creates something completely new.
Out of the three variants released in 2022 - 250 pieces in rose gold and cream lacquer and 150 pieces in platinum with burgundy lacquer—the Santos-Dumont Ref. WSSA0046 is the one in stainless steel with black lacquer, which gives the best contrast of the three. What's interesting about it is that it's not like a completely blacked-out watch with ADLC or a PVD coating, but you can see a lot of brightwork on this watch.
The lacquer does not black out everything the way a blacked-out watch would appear to, but it emphasises the lines, the case, and the design of the piece.
Another interesting fact is that this stainless steel variant is not a limited edition production, and as of 2025, it's still available on the website.
The size of the watch is large. It measures 43.5mm lug to lug but is only 7.3mm thick. On the wrist, it's not really a big watch, as Cartier calls it, but at the same time, it is probably more like about a 35 or 36 mm round watch because square watches generally cover more area than a round watch.
There's no second-hand or no date feature on the dial. The black dial with translucent lacquer dial has a textured section in the centre and features a classic layout, including stylised applied Roman numerals, sleek polished sword hands, a traditional chemin de fer minute track, and a clean, no-date design. The dial's spectacular finish adds character to this signature formula. However, the series of lacquered concentric squares gives the black dial a sense of immense visual depth, as seen in the images.
The watch takes the most straightforward yet stylistic approach, matching its black lacquered case with an alligator leather strap.
Cartier powers the Santos-Dumont Ref. WSSA0046 with the Piaget 430P-based 430 MC hand-wound movement. The 430 MC is a common choice for Cartier creations, and while it provides an attractive finishing, it cuts down on the power reserve, which, in this case, is only 38 hours. It is water resistant to 30 metres, so you don't have to worry about getting it splashed if you get in the rain or accidentally put your hand under the running water.
All in all, you have to see it to believe. The pictures on the website don't really show the amazing sparkle that you get from the brightwork on it. It is definitely a watch that we think is going to be a real winner.
Also, we think this watch is almost even dressier than the gold Santos Dumont or, certainly, the steel Santos Dumont without lacquer. And, given the affordable pricing, it surely is a catch.
Review: Cartier Santos-Dumont ‘Large’ WSSA0046
Basics:
- Model: WSSA0046
- Case Size: 43.5mm x 31.4mm
- Material: Stainless Steel With Black Lacquer
- Bezel: Stainless Steel With Black Lacquer & Exposed Screws
- Dial: Black With Translucent Lacquer
- Bracelet/Strap: Black Alligator-Skin Strap
- Movement: Manual Winding, Calibre 430 MC
- Power Reserve: 38 hours
- Water Resistance: 30 metres
- Price: £5,800
Case
The Santos-Dumont WSSA0046 has a 43.5 mm x 31.4 mm stainless steel case with black lacquer and a case thickness of 7.3 mm. While Cartier describes the model as a 'Large' size, the Santos-Dumont WSSA0046 is more petite for masculine wrists.
The sleek geometry of the stainless steel case remains highlighted with an attractive black lacquer. However, the lacquer doesn't cover the sharp bevels of the case but perfectly highlights the design. The beauty of black lacquer is that it doesn't extend over the edges of the case and respects the rounded borders, giving the case its signature silhouette. Though a vintage Santos model inspires the case, it still feels satisfyingly original.
Bezel
The stainless steel bezel, adorned with black lacquer and highlighted by 8 signature screws, adds a refined touch to the overall design of the Santos-Dumont. Instead of applying the lacquer on the entire case, Cartier applied it to the recesses engraved into the lugs and bezel, which are then polished by hand to create a smooth surface.
Dial
The glossy black square dial, coated in translucent lacquer, features engraved squares that increase in size from the centre. It accentuates the square case and creates a striking three-dimensional effect. The dial is adorned with raised Roman numerals and sword-shaped steel hands and framed by a printed railroad minute track. This black dial with translucent lacquer gives enough contrast to be enjoyed with the stainless steel bevel shining through.
Strap
The black Santos-Dumont WSSA0046 has a black alligator leather strap and a stainless steel tang buckle. The pin buckle not only looks distinctive but also allows you to quickly adjust the strap in a pinch.
Movement
Beneath the solid case back runs the Calibre 430 MC, an in-house handcrafted manufacture calibre movement. The movement is based on one of the ultra-thin hand-wound mechanical movements from Piaget. This hand-wound mechanical movement winds very smoothly and runs at 21,600vph, offering a power reserve of 38 hours.
Other Details
A scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects the face top. At 3 o'clock on the right side of the dial, the circular-grained crown is set with Cartier's signature bright blue synthetic spinel cabochon.
Ultimately, what sets this watch up for success is the engraved handwritten signature of Alberto Santos Dumont on the case back, which is filled with lacquer to match the case.
Price & Availability
Another uplifting fact about this watch is the price. We’re sure many will agree that £5,800 for a brilliant steel watch by Cartier is not outlandish.
In fact, it is a very good value given the unusual execution and also the ultra-thin, manual-winding Piaget movement inside. Therefore, as it looks, it's pretty hard to get your hands on one of these Cartier Santos-Dumont black lacquer watches.
| Model | Retail Price | Pre-Owned Price |
|---|---|---|
| Cartier Santos-Dumont Ref. WSSA0046 | £5,800 | £5,873.00 to £7,634.00 |
Why buy the Cartier Santos-Dumont WSSA0046?
The standard Santos-Dumont timepieces are conventional yet elegant, but the Santos-Dumont watches with lacquer are special because they are different yet elegant.
The Cartier Santos-Dumont Ref. WSSA0046, in stainless steel with a black dial, is a very black-tie timepiece. It is very tempting, even for someone who doesn't prefer black watches or alligator straps.
This lacquered Santos-Dumont is an achievement, given that the original design is so iconic. The thin profile of this watch makes it feel at home on almost any wrist. The watch makes a strong impression on the wrist despite its relatively modest size. This steel model looks just right for formal wear. However, if it were a tad bit larger, it would have the versatility to be a casual, everyday timepiece.
From the design perspective, it is one of the most interesting Cartier watches. The black lacquer makes it feel like a different watch while still remaining recognisable as a classic Cartier Santos. Part of why it immediately catches the attention is the thin layer of black lacquer on the top of the case and bezel.
Additionally, the pricing certainly adds to the appeal. Being priced at only £5800 is a very positive surprise for the collectors and enthusiasts alike. This watch is a good choice for anyone who values history and modern style.
LASTLY..
What started as a bespoke commission for the renowned aviator went into serial production in 1911, and today, with its stylish lacquer variant, it stands as one of the most popular models from the iconic Santos collection.
With its signature square sports watch design, paired with eye-catching lacquered case finishes and refined textured dials, the Cartier Santos-Dumont WSSA0046 presents a uniquely refined reinterpretation of this timeless classic. Thankfully, this stainless steel variant is a regular production model available on Cartier's official website.