Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Ref. 15210ST.OO.A056KB.01 - Review & Buying Guide
Audemars Piguet is a brand with a strong identity; there’s no doubt about it. For the longest period, Audemars Piguet focused on Genta’s octagonal design, whether Royal Oak or Royal Oak Offshore watches, representing most of the watches sold. Therefore, the brand knew it was time to diversify from its iconic sports watch to create something refreshingly new. Hence, in 2019, it released the Code 11:59.
When it was first announced, it was no secret that the model did not fare well. But neither did the Royal Oak or the Offshore, for that matter when first launched. However, where the industry laughed, the cash-paying customers told a different story. To them, Code 11:59 is an amalgamation of AP’s two very distinct personalities—one, the classic and traditional side before 1972, and another, the audacious side that comes post Royal Oak.
Even five years after its launch, Code 11:59 remains the new kid on the block, but it has now grown out of its baby phase to become a more appealing toddler whose parents are dressing it up in smart new outfits – for example, the Audemars Piguet Code 11:59, Ref. 15210ST.OO.A056KB.01.
Released in 2023, this new stainless steel model—a first for the collection—received a friendly welcome, unlike its 2019 predecessors. While the core of the watch remains the same as in the 2019 release, Audemars Piguet has swiftly tweaked the formula to win hearts.
As you’d expect, we’ll discuss this new model in detail below. But before that, it’s essential to shed light on this non-Royal Oak model that sent a tidal wave through the watch industry.
Idea Behind The Audemars Piguet Code 11:59
In January 2019, Audemars Piguet launched its new collection, Code 11:59.
- CODE: The ‘C’ stands for Challenge the limits of Craftsmanship, ‘O’ for Own roots & legacy, ‘D’ for Dare to follow firm convictions and ‘E’ for Evolve and never stand still.
- 11:59: It means the last minute before a new day.
The collection was AP’s response to expanding out of the iconic Royal Oak collection. The basic concept of the new collection was to bring back the manufacturer’s long heritage of design experimentation. As a result, it delves into innovative watchmaking techniques to craft its distinct shape, along with the unique layering method employed for the dial's logo and overall design.
The Code 11:59 watches brought back the classic round face in AP’s collection yet with a contemporary approach to appeal to the less traditional clientele. Given that small, minimalist dress watches aren't really in line with the brand's vibe, AP embraced a new vision of a modern classic in this Code 11:59. However, there’s more to this collection than a round case.
The brand’s newest collection is a sum of impressive details and demonstrates what AP can do in terms of watch design, dial making and, of course, movement making. The watches showcase their high-end watchmaking capabilities, incorporating complex complications and innovative design elements within a round case. Once you hold a Code 11:59 timepiece in your hand, you’ll know that it has to be observed and explored.
It took AP seven years to create the CODE 11:59 as a concept. This showcases the amount of consideration and depth that lies behind the designs. The timepieces are designed to make a lasting impression. Since its release, Code 11:59 has experienced a remarkable journey of evolution, overcoming initial criticism to finally emerge as a respected and sought-after timepiece.
Early Design of the AP Code 11:59
The watches from the CODE 11:59 collection utilised a new case architecture, unlike anything you’d seen before. See them from a bird’s eye view; they’re round, but turn them at an angle; the mid-case is an octagon with a mix of polished and brushed finishes. Simply put, it is a watch featuring an octagonal middle case embedded within a round case. This shows AP’s tendency to experiment with geometry.
The open lugs are attached to the slim bezel that further holds down the crystal. At the bottom, the lugs appear to rest against the case rather than being directly attached. The result is what you can call an avant-garde creation.
Initially, Audemars Piguet produced the Code 11:59 watches only in precious metals like white and rose gold. The watches feature a modern 41mm diameter, giving them a contemporary size, and the idea was to make them suitable for both men and women. The dial is lacquered up to almost 12 times, and the logo is in box letters.
Another key design trait seen in the watches is the unusual crystal. Due to the extremely thin bezel, the crystal is expansive and also curved in two different radiuses. The Code 11:59 is fitted with a double-curved crystal, boasting a convex shape on the inside and a smooth curve from 12 to 6 on the outside.
Because of this, the dial is always clear and legible, and there’s a magical optical effect.
That’s not all. With this new collection, Audemars Piguet released three new calibres. There are six movements in total across the 13 watches released, and three of them are completely new and unique to Code 11:59.
Modern Audemars Piguet CODE 11:59 Ref. 15210ST.OO.A056KB.01
New colours, materials, textures and ‘date’ displays. This generation of Code 11:59 shines in steel, making it an affordable alternative to the previous gold counterparts, and equips several interesting details that were missing in the original.
The Reference 15210ST.OO.A056KB.01 embraces a new aesthetic that emphasises ergonomics and legibility. It is a time-and-date chronograph model featuring a really cool green dial with lively textures. Although the design blueprint remains the same, as in the octagonal middle case, slim bezel, double-curved sapphire crystal and arched and open-worked lugs, there are a lot of other things to appreciate.
The richly textured green dial, adorned with faceted baton hour markers and a date window at 3 o’clock, glimmers and plays beautifully with light. The concentric pattern on the dial gives it more depth and personality. What appeals to us is that this new model is simpler and less busy than previous iterations.
The 41 mm case styling remains similar to the original and sports the same unique shape, with a bezel and back containing an octagonal middle case. Whether you see it from the side or the top, the watch still appears interesting and good to look at.
The watch comes with a green rubber-coated strap that matches the dial and has a nice textile pattern. It is closed by a steel pin buckle. This self-winding Code 11:59 runs on AP’s latest generation movement, Calibre 4302, built in-house for added stability and precision.
This recent iteration, with the introduction of stainless steel and improved dial detailing, has made this collection increasingly popular among watch enthusiasts, especially those seeking a sophisticated timepiece with a distinct personality beyond the classic Royal Oak style.
Initial Review
It seems Audemars Piguet understood the assignment well and swiftly picked up the hints to create a better-received model. It did not just facelift the previous plain dial but actually put effort into creating something notable.
This redesigned Code 11:59 is more appealing than the original. The dial's visual detailing is the main point of attraction. Anyone who wasn’t persuaded by the original will definitely have their guard down for this one. It is all about detail and colour on this one.
The guilloche green dial with a concentric pattern is a fresh alternative to the lacquer finish of the original. Gone are the Arabic numerals; instead, they are replaced by baton hands and markers with a more intricate pattern. The hands are partially open-worked, the markers are faceted, and both feature luminous filling. Though the hands and markers are more modern now, they still appear slightly retro from a distance. Fans of contemporary design might frown on this one.
The case sits comfortably at 41mm, and the finishing is exactly what you’d expect from AP. This watch is more on the dressier end of the scale but not in a traditional way. It has that upper cool, edgy and contemporary-looking aesthetic. The green textile strap appears more playful, sporty and beautiful.
To us, the Code 11:59 ref. 15210ST.OO.A056KB.01 is a good-looking watch with lots of fine details. Also, keeping everything aside, the stainless steel makes this model more sporty, less luxe, less showy and all the more affordable. Not to mention, we appreciate AP finally putting something that rivals its more famous sibling. Some critics might find the design too unconventional, especially the unusual lug structure. But if you ask us, we’re just happy that we finally have a potential option beyond the Royal Oak.
REVIEW: Audemars Piguet CODE 11:59 Ref. 15210ST.OO.A056KB.01
Basics:
- Model: 15210ST.OO.A056KB.01
- Case Size: 41mm
- Material: Stainless Steel
- Bezel: Stainless Steel
- Dial: Green
- Bracelet/Strap: Green rubber-coated strap
- Movement: Calibre 4302, Automatic
- Power Reserve: 70 hours
- Water Resistance: 30 metres
- Price: £22,700
Case & Bezel
The case, with its 41mm diameter, still retains the sandwich construction that characterises the collection. It has a thin bezel, octagonal case middle and a domed top with the much-discussed open-worked lugs welded to the bezel and gently resting on the case back. This complex approach results in an impressive finish with many contrasting details and surfaces.
Audemars Piguet now finishes the cases, alternating between polished and brushed surfaces. Meanwhile, the crown has also been redesigned. It has softer edges and is shallower but with more fluting for better grip. As the model is entirely made of steel, it quickly gives lightness to the wrist.
Dial
To witness the most changes, you must turn to the dial. The new Code 11:59 model flaunts a new stamped dial consisting of finely executed concentric circles, creating a ripple pattern. AP has made this particular texture alongside prestigious Swiss guilloche craftsman Yann von Kaenel. This motif aims to provide the most legibility and an instantly recognisable aesthetic to this specific line. Upon this deep pattern, AP then colours the dial in green using PVD.
The pattern of waves moves outwards from the dial centre and is decorated with hundreds of tiny holes that gleefully play with light. The dial adorns white gold hour markers and hands with luminescent coating and a green inner bezel. These hour markers and hands are faceted, flattened, and polished before being filled with Super-LumiNova for maximum legibility.
Additionally, the inner khaki bezel is now wider, and hosts raised rings with scales that then slope down into the stamped dial. The seconds scale is also more defined than before.
Bracelet/Strap
As for the strap, Audemars Piguet matches the Code 11:59 Ref. 15210ST.OO.A056KB.01 with a green rubber-coated strap fitted with a stainless steel pin buckle. It is exciting to see AP explore a strap pairing with modern sensibilities. However, it makes sense as this collection is positioned as the future of the brand.
This rubber-coated strap offers a more youthful aesthetic, implying that you do not need to wear a suit to wear this watch. The strap's casualness removes inhibitions and suggests it is a worthy daily beater. Plus, it is extremely comfortable on the wrist and offers protection against moisture.
Movement
This three-hand timepiece is powered by the Calibre 4302, which incorporates all the features expected of a modern, high-calibre movement, including an impressive 70-hour power reserve. This new rotor beats at a frequency of 4 Hz.
Visible through the sapphire case back is a myriad of refined decorations as well as the brand new 22ct pink gold open-worked oscillating weight dedicated to the collection.
Price & Availability
With a price tag of £22,700, the new AP Code 11:59 Ref. 15210ST.OO.A056KB.01 is the most affordable mechanical AP. Compared to similar offerings from Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe, this new Code 11:59 stands out the best in terms of pricing, quality, and luxury.
Why buy the Audemars Piguet CODE 11:59 Ref. 15210ST.OO.A056KB.01?
The new Code 11:59 Ref. 15210ST.OO.A056KB.01 by Audemars Piguet in steel is proof that the collection is finally coming into its own. Perhaps, in a few years, we’ll look back at the launch of CODE 11:59 with the same reverence we now have for the 1972 Royal Oak release.
The arrival of steel in Code 11:59 means this collection is all set to be in line for the future. The green hue is extremely sober, and AP has introduced a brand-new embossed dial that has never been seen before.
The stamped dial looks great, the strap is super comfortable, and the case finish is top-notch, as expected from AP. Using steel for this model definitely opens the door for buyers to better engage with the collection and its handsome refinements. We’re now convinced more people will take an interest in this collection worth exploring.
Also, we really feel you have to see the watch in person to actually love it. There’s just so much to appreciate here in this one, including the transparent case back that allows you to admire the Calibre 4302 movement’s beauty, making it a watch you’ll enjoy looking at from every angle.
It’s got that extra touch of luxury for watch lovers. With this amazing wrist piece, you can enjoy the brand’s legacy at a slightly lower price point. And who knows, much like its other famed sibling, this Code 11:59 model will attain similar hype in the coming days, making it almost unattainable at retail. After all, it’s Audemars Piguet we’re talking here.
To End With
No brand would want to become dependent on one particular model alone. So, AP had to do something, and in 2019, they released the CODE 11:59 in the hope of diversifying their line and the reaction, as expected - terrible and fantastic. The problem turned out when fans started outright comparing the goodness of this new model with that of the iconic Royal Oak, and hence, the dilemma.
However, as time passed and Audemars Piguet started taking more risks, they succeeded! For instance, this new 2023 launched Code 11:59 reference 15210ST.OO.A056KB.01 beautifully reflects AP’s proficiency as a high-end watchmaker and ability to blend tradition with modernity.
Whether you’re a collector or someone looking for a statement piece for daily wear, this CODE 11:59 from AP is a fantastic consideration and easily has what it takes to become a future classic in the luxury watch world.
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